L'Escala is a sllow-paced beach town on the Costa Brava, in Catalonia's Empordà. Definitely not a resort built for tourists. It's known across Spain for one thing above all, its anchovies. It's a calmer, more grown-up alternative to the busier parts of the Costa Brava, good food, history, and beaches on both sides of town.
This is a where to eat/drink/swim/sleep slow living guide to L’Escala.
Where to eat and drink
L'Esculapi
In the old square of Sant Martí d'Empúries, a lovely, long-standing spot for seafood, pizza and grilled sardines, with a terrace looking over the coast. Go outside peak summer if you can, it gets busy, and ask for a table in the old stone house rather than the newer glasshouse.
Els Barrils
A wine and tapas bar in the old town, good for a glass of something and a plate of the town's own anchovies with Catalan cheese. Casual, with barrels out on the street.
Cal Galan
A cosy, traditional restaurant a short walk from the centre, good for a proper sit-down meal.
Mesón del Conde
Another good table in Sant Martí d'Empúries, known for fish, rice dishes and calçots in season.
The beaches
Riells
The main town beach, a long curve of sand, shallow and easy, good for kids. It fills up in summer, so come early or late in the day.
Cala Montgó
A pretty bay a short drive or cycle from town, backed by pine woods, with good snorkelling. Quieter outside the height of summer.
Illa Mateua
A quiet little cove near Cala Montgó, good for a calmer swim.
El Riuet
A long, wilder stretch of sand running up toward Sant Pere Pescador, with space for windsurfing and kitesurfing, and areas favoured by nudists.
Where to stay
Taverna de la Sal
A boutique hotel in the old town, right by the anchovy and salt museum, in keeping with the whole spirit of the place. The nicest option in L'Escala itself.
Hostal Empúries
Close to the ruins, with a spa and an indoor pool, good for a more comfortable stay near Sant Martí d'Empúries.
Hotel Voramar
Right on the beachfront in town, simple and well placed if you want to walk straight onto the sand.
The anchovies, and the ruins
If you do one thing beyond eating and swimming, spend a morning at the Museu de l'Anxova i de la Sal, the anchovy and salt museum, set in an old 1913 factory building, to see how the town's whole identity was built on salting fish. Then walk the coastal path out to Empúries, the ruins of an old Greek trading post and later a Roman city, right on the water, and on to the medieval hamlet of Sant Martí d'Empúries next door, all cobbled lanes and sea views. It's a proper morning's walk, and it's the whole story of the town in one stretch of coast.
L'Escala rewards the slow approach. Good meals, a beach picked for the day's mood, and a walk out to the ruins when you feel like some history.
Looking for a beautiful place to stay? Browse our design-led homes to rent across Europe in the Slow Casa directory.